Tag Archives: Sri Lanka

No more tears

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Relaxing... or comatose?

Relaxing… or comatose?

I’ve just realised that this is the first holiday I’ve had where there haven’t been gales of tears at some point along the way (usually the first day, but invariably periodically throughout the vacation). I can’t think what to credit this momentous occasion but could it be that I’ve possibly become a seasoned traveller? Well I’m not going to draw any conclusions until my next holiday without tears, but certainly the last few days have given no cause for emotional upheavals as it’s been smooth sailing the whole way.

We’ve been staying just outside the picturesque town of Galle at Kahanda Kanda. This was going to be the relaxing part of the holiday but little did I know I would be spending most of the time in bed. Now get your minds out of the gutter – we weren’t having wild monkey sex the whole time (sorry mum) – I came down with a cold. It certainly wasn’t how I’d intended this holiday to end but somehow not entirely surprising given the stressful lead up to this holiday. I rallied to make a couple of forays into the town of Galle (the fort) which is another must see if you come to Sri Lanka. I thought Sri Lanka had nothing for me shopping wise, but that was until I walked into a gem shop in Fort Galle and then I got a little bedazzled and bought up big. Good thing it’s so cheap over here 🙂

Now we’re just hanging around waiting to leave. I’ve been here just long enough to start regretting leaving, but that usually only lasts until I get on the plane for home. It’s always interesting experiencing other cultures, albeit in places they might never afford, but also nice to know your place in the world and Perth is and always will be home.

Roughing it

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I know what I have to say next will be met with baffled amusement by some, but it’s camping time. OK, I guess it’s not quite roughing it if you get to sleep in a double bed, and have drinks brought to you by the staff, but the fact remains; I’m sleeping in a tent. Of course we still had to get there and our driver took us on an incredibly long 5 ½ hour journey driving in the opposite direction for a good hour or two from where we should have been going. When I finally plucked up enough courage to question him and show him my Google map and ask why we hadn’t gone straight there, he laughed, waggled his head and said it was the long way. We have to bow to his superior knowledge of his land, but it’s just that we went via Ratnapura where we stopped at a gem ‘museum’ which just happened to be a front for a jewellery shop. Suspicious much? We think so, but as much as I like a good gem, we left that museum quicker than a Zimbabwean batsman leaves the crease once we realised what was going on.

Samantha the leopard

Samantha the leopard

Anyway, eventually we got to Leopard Trails for our tented safari in Yala National Park. On our first drive I spotted our first leopard. She was a beautiful cub about a year old, but pretty large for all that. She wandered behind the vehicle and sat on the side of the road as if for a photo opportunity before she moved on her way. Of course it doesn’t take long on the bush grapevine for word to spread around and soon many jeeps arrived, but we got her all to ourselves for a little while. The guide said she didn’t have a name and asked for suggestions. I promptly said “Samantha” (Sam not being a fitting name for a leopard I think) and for the rest of the trip everyone called both the leopard and myself, Samantha. Very weird being called Samantha – usually only happens when I’m in trouble 😉

Down at the water hole

Down at the water hole

Now god knows I’m not a big fan of getting up early in the mornings and 5 am safari drives are no exception, but being able to see three leopards drinking and playing at the waterhole was very special. In fact we saw lots of leopards, a sloth bear, elephants, mongooses, python, buffalo, deer and crocodiles plus more so our wild animal quota for this trip is well and truly satisfied. We even had the thrill of being charged by an angry elephant, but he was just pretending. Apparently when they make a noise and flap their ears at you they’re not serious about charging. Seemed pretty serious to me, but he didn’t commit so I’m writing about it now. All the same, three nights on safari was more than enough and we’re looking forward to sleeping in again.

He’s from Barcelona…

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If you’re going to come to Sri Lanka, you should head into its mountainous heart and try a thrill-seeking adventure holiday – and/or tea. A very long and winding 4 hour drive later we found ourselves in the rainforest in an old tea plantation. There couldn’t be a greater contrast between Sigiryia and Kitulgala: It is cold, raining, lushly green and we’re staying at a hotel run by Basil Fawlty. Question: Why display bottles of alcohol in the bar if you’re not allowed to serve them? Tantalus was tempted less. They did offer me a glass from a flagon of red wine but my cheap wine drinking days were over circa 1984 and the less said about those days the better 🙂

But we were staying here for a reason: to go white water rafting at Borderlands which was about a 30 minute drive away. The constant rain had the effect of making the rapids far more exciting than they would ordinarily have been and if it weren’t for our excellent safety briefing beforehand I’m sure we would have fallen out during one of the class III rapids we navigated. Our dreadlocked Austrian guide had us paddle high-fiving after every success and has agreed to be my porter on my Inca Trail trek next year if he can procure a donkey.

It was back to Forest Edge for one last night before we leave for Safari but, not willing to spend another night in this place sans alcohol, I bought a bottle from Borderlands to take back with us. It probably comes as no surprise that wine sourced from a backpackers was not very good, but it served its purpose. Also helped to get us through the evening when the electricity went out in our room. Mr Fawlty attacked the fuse box with a screwdriver and stuffed newspaper in to restore light while I mentally revised my first aid procedures. I will say this though: While the service left a lot to be desired, the food was excellent (just don’t order off the menu!).

Calves of Iron

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Day 03 saw us heading on an, at times, butt-clenching five hour journey to Sigiryia where culture awaited. Many internet forums strongly recommended against a self-drive tour in Sri Lanka and we understand why now. Best just to close your eyes and liquor up before you go. It was, of course, worth it in the end and we’re batting two for two in the accommodation stakes so far with eco resort Jet Wing Vil Uyana proving another winner – although passing field upon field of onions leading up to the resort had me wondering if it were a bad omen of sorts. Nasty vegetable, the onion. You know you’ve got first world problems when you’re disappointed you don’t have your own private pool – but an upgrade soon got us an amazing villa, complete with pool and monkey*.

The next day involved a decision that I was to pay for, and am still paying for, for days after: Lion Rock. Now don’t get me wrong – Lion Rock is an absolute must if you’re in this area. Now a UNESCO world heritage site, formerly a king’s palace, then a Buddhist monastery… today it was the climb that never ended. Yep, the name probably gave it away, but whatever this thing was in its former lives, it was on top of a bloody big rock. Not that it was at all difficult to climb… many months of boot camp had me racing to the top with ease… but the next day… Oh the next day. Suffice it to say that next time boot camp is on there will be a lot of stair work 🙂

Eco-tourism gone mad

Eco-tourism gone mad

The afternoon was devoted to nature, although the elephant safari didn’t turn out quite as expected. Minneriya certainly did have elephants – but the jeeps far outnumbered the elephants! The elephants were marvelously unconcerned, but with so many vehicles circling, it was impossible to get too close. I know they’re trying to earn an income, but without more controls untold damage could be done.

Fashion plate

Fashion plate

OK, time to get off my soapbox, although at this point any steps up or down result in intense pain in my calves. As luck would have it, the following day’s adventure also involved stairs. Not quite as many, but stairs they were just the same. I get that putting a Buddhist temple on top of a rock would seemingly get you closer to god – and certainly I applaud the notion that a little effort should be required to worship whatever deity you so desire, but so soon after Lion Rock – well, let’s just say it was very slow progress. I also made a fairly rookie mistake by wearing shorts. I normally carry a scarf around with me for just such occasions but I really dropped the ball on the research here as I thought we were seeing caves not a temple in a cave. Salvation was at hand through a vendor at the top of the hill selling sarongs… for a price. I soon got over my reluctance to bargain however, and haggled him down to 1500 rupee on principle alone. I thought holidays were supposed to be relaxing?

* Monkey not actually included.