Gilligan’s Island

Not a bad way to spend a day

Not a bad way to spend a day

Yup, that’s right little buddy – we’re staying on Gilligan’s Island (after they were rescued and went back to create a luxury resort). All we need is Mary Ann’s coconut cream pie and my 60s flashback is complete. Our temporary home is at Benguerra Lodge in a casita on the beach, complete with plunge pool and butler. I have to say, I do like being waited on 🙂

It’s hard to believe it, but with three lodges on this Island, there are only two other guests. I know it’s the wet season, but apart from the evening shower yesterday that cancelled my horse riding expedition, it’s been blue skies all the way. Actually the horse riding is quite an incredible tale in itself: these horses were rescued from the Zimbabwe land invasions and eventually found a home in Mozambique. You see, I’m getting a holiday and a history lesson…

At the Dhow bar

At the Dhow bar

Given my dislike for getting wet, it might surprise you to know that I’m in the ocean *all* the time here. Partly because it’s so hot but mainly because it is so inviting. Also, it hardly feels like you’re in, the water is so warm. Even when we went out to a reef in the middle of the ocean for some snorkelling, it wasn’t cold at all. And speaking of snorkelling: usually it’s the fish that draws the attention, but in this case it was the coral which was in pristine condition and I’ve never seen the like before (in my one previous snorkelling experience that is). I only wish I had some photos to show you (maybe another expensive camera purchase?). I kind of thought we were going to have a relaxing three days, but our “cruise director” has our days planned out exceedingly well. From dhow cruises to picnics on the beach, there’s just no time for relaxation!

For some reason my mobile and my MasterCard don’t work over here. Either that or I haven’t paid my bills. Either way it’s worth remembering in future to bring two different credit cards! Good thing Chris is here as ‘Minister for Finance’ as our host Solomon would say.

A tale of two kitties (apologies to Charles Dickens)

We have now left behind South Africa but I have made a firm resolve to be back soon as it was an amazing experience. I want to trek the Kalahari, traverse the bushveld, follow the migration of the Wildebeest – all in the utmost luxury of course 🙂. A lot of that has to do with the cats. It probably doesn’t surprise many people given my borderline status as a crazy cat lady, but I wanted to share two different experiences before I devote my days to hedonistic pleasure in Mozambique.

Tough life being a cat

Tough life being a cat

We came across the young male lion unexpectedly, early in our morning safari yet he barely acknowledged our existence. i.e. he continued sleeping on the ground. How like a cat. Nothing really changed for ten minutes or so. I mean, he opened his eyes, stretched, yawned, but essentially remained where he was. Then all of a sudden he got to his feet and was all quivering alertness. It was then we saw the hyena approaching from behind. The lion didn’t turn to face the hyena, but kicked out his back feet and the hyena eventually slunk away, whereupon the lion settled back down for another sleep. The lion won the encounter today but unfortunately faces a sad future as he was driven from his pride by a pack of males who killed his brother and attempts to join another pride have met with rejection. He will find it difficult to survive without company. I’ve got to stop singing the Circle of Life when I hear sad tales such as this. Chris hates it when I’m channeling The Lion King.

Mvula (big daddy)

Mvula (big daddy)

Quite the opposite is the leopard – he is a solitary creature for the most part and gets on very well on his own (must be why I like them so much!). They’re cool without even trying. They have that, “don’t give a damn” attitude and “I’ll do what I want” air. They also tend not to stay still very often, so once you’ve found one you have to follow them through the bush as they’re not normally conveniently located in a tree by the road. I think the ranger does more damage than an elephant in his efforts to position us perfectly for photos. It is also a lot of fun – especially when you’re in the relative safety of a jeep. We were lucky to see three leopards this trip (one up a tree with his kill!) but I would happily see many more. They also make for some quite stunning photographs and I think I’ve found myself a new hobby – and an excuse to buy myself a really expensive camera.

Hakuna Matata

Bogged in the stream? no worries - just set up a table and have something to drink.

Bogged in a stream? no worries – just set up a table and have something to drink.

As promised, an African Safari was next on the cards and from the moment I saw my first warthog I’ve had Hakuna Matata running on a loop in my head. After swallowing my fears and several malaria tablets, we arrived at Arathusa Lodge for our grand adventure. We go out on safari every morning at the ungodly hour of 5am and again in the afternoon at 4. After three hours of driving around, we’ve pretty much seen everything: hippos playing, zebras chasing, tortoises mating, rhinos… well email me if you want that pic, and countless other birds and beasts. We finally got to see a lion this morning (he was proving quite elusive) so now we’ve ticked off the big 5 I’m not sure if there’s anything left to see?

The animals are so beautiful (well maybe not the warthog) and we get incredibly close to them. I had visions of being chased by lions before this trip but they seem completely disinterested in us. I’m not sure the same could be said if we were on foot so rule number one is “Don’t get out of the car” No problems there – I’ll dampen down my usual disregard for authority and do as I’m told (note: this probably won’t ever happen again). My favourite thus far would probably be the leopard. He was so sleek and elegant and completely chilled out. I would have liked to pat him, apart from rule number two relating to petting the animals.

Internet has been a bit dodgy so I haven’t had a chance to post pics but I plan to do so directly I post this. Next stop Mozambique and the appearance of Island Sam.

The City of Boots

by the River Seine

Romance by the river

I know, I know, Paris is normally thought of as the City of Love, but for this trip it was in fact the City of Boots. Fun shopping for, but not so fun having to lug them all home. Severe. Luggage. Crisis.

Not that we weren’t romantic, but this is as close as it gets:

Sam: Let’s go for a romantic stroll by the Seine
Chris: Really? These things are never as romantic as you think they’re going to be
Sam: I’m benevolent to all mankind (a few vodkas by this stage) – why would you want to wreck that when I’m being romantic?

Anyway, he was right – it was noisy, busy and completely unromantic, plus one of the pairs of aforementioned boots were hurting my feet quite considerably. But I gave it a red hot go.

Maybe we’ll try again on our next adventure: an African safari, coming to your screens Jan/Feb 2013…

Au revoir

France: the bullet point breakdown part II

Getting cosy at Chateau de Chambord

After our lovely stay in Cordes Sur Ciel we had a bit of a drive on our hands to get to Paris in time. I can’t believe I thought I was going to get a visit to Normandy in on this trip – that plan went out the window about a week ago. My spatial abilities when looking at maps are obviously lacking. Anyway, here’s the bullet point breakdown for the rest:

  • Ingrandes: This was quite literally a “stick a pin in the map approximately two hours away from here” choice but turned out to be a good one. Saint Victor La Grand Maison was a beautiful old house which, as we were the only people staying, we could explore and stay as long as we want. Our host Marie was playing piano and singing opera and it was a real hoot. Unfortunately the weather turned rubbish and we could only stay one night. Also, small villages with restaurants open on a Monday night are few and far between.
  • Tour-en-Sologne: Same principle as above for choosing this one, but we lucked out on the old-world charm of the rooms. Still, a good base for exploring the ten zillion chateaus in the area. We only went to one: Chambord (I think mainly because I love the liqueur), but it was pretty spectacular. Weather remains miserable but restaurant situation improved dramatically with a visit to a Michelin-starred restaurant, L’Orangerie in Blois.
  • Paris: I think Paris needs its own post, but you just know there’s going to be shopping and drinking involved J

Sea change

OK, so the plan to travel through France staying a night at each place was quite obviously a flawed one. It is exhausting – even when you have your own car. After Carcassonne we were fortunate enough to be able to extend our next stay to four nights at Cordes Sur Ciel. Actually, we had a bit of a hidden agenda because we’ve been looking for a property to buy in France and this area was on our hit list.

Cordes Sur Ciel

Only €200k and this could be yours…

We had also found a place we liked so arranged an inspection with a real estate agent, but holy crap was there a lot of work to be done! I was going to freak Emma out by sending her the picture and saying this is where we were going to live, but it freaked me out too much to do that. No, we’d like to buy somewhere like the place we stayed: Laborie Grande (but smaller). I’m still not convinced of the plan for me to make jam and yoghurt in rural France, but maybe the time’s right for a sea change?* (my family are just falling off their chairs laughing at that… in fact anybody who knows me probably is!).

Mind you, there’s still a lot of France to see and we’re not going to impulse-buy a country house no matter how much I like shopping. Just keeping our options open… and who doesn’t want to know someone who has a house in France where they can stay for free reduced rates?

*btw, if there’s no internet access it’s just not happening.

France: the bullet point breakdown part I

Sur le pont, D’Avignon

It’s been a while since I’ve posted an update – but that’s because we’ve been driving through France staying a night here, a night there. Nothing *terribly* exciting has happened, so I’m just going to give you a bullet point break down of the first week:

  • Nice: Nice was only supposed to be our entry point into France, but if I’d known how nice it was we would have stayed longer than one night. Stayed in the worst hotel ever, but when you get in at 11 pm, you don’t have too many options. Return visit is definitely in order (just not on a Sunday because all the shops are closed!!!)
  • Brignoles: Meh… Was lured in to staying here because of the B&B pictures, which didn’t quite live up to expectations. Luckily we only stayed one night. There’s a story to tell here when I’m back home after a couple of glasses of wine 🙂 Drove to Cotignac for dinner. Not worth mentioning food-wise, but after our meal we went down a dead end alley way where what seemed like hundreds of cats were having committee meetings. As we drove through their little heads would pop-up, then they’d run away. Of course once we’d realized it was a dead end Chris had to reverse back out for a few hundred metres dodging cats along the way. It went something like this:

    Chris: Just tell me if I’m going to hit something
    Sam: bwahahaha (had a few drinks)
    Chris: $*@!

    It was fricken hilarious. Well, I thought it was funny…

  • Avignon: Of course I went there just to stand on the bridge and sing the song. Well, I sang it in my head. Have taken a thousand photos, but they’re all crap.
  • Carcassone: The medieval town is postcard perfect, but restaurants are very hit and miss. Anything that’s good needs to be booked days before hand so all you’re usually left with is the touristy rubbish. Did find a very nice wine bar on our last night so as long as we can drink the good stuff we’re OK. Shopping was a disappointment, BUT… I did find one shop and now have an entirely new wardrobe. Must keep me away from shops when I’m bored. It’s very expensive!

Can’t take me anywhere

A room with a view

Disaster struck as we left Rome behind when about half way through our five hour journey to the Amalfi Coast I realized that we had actually left our passports in the B&B safe!!! Fortunately we were able to get the owner to courier them to us (thanks Vittorio), but we didn’t receive them until right before we had to leave. It was a rather nervous wait I have to say. Luckily the place where we were staying was conducive to relaxation – Casa Angelina was, quite frankly, pretty awesome. I knew I was going to like it as soon as I was introduced to the man who was going to be at our beck and call during our stay: He would make us whatever our little hearts desired. Sigh – I could get used to that kind of service.

We didn’t leave the hotel during our stay and I stole as many freebies as I possibly could. We’re talking L’Occitane toiletries here people! No sooner had I secreted a hand cream away, there was another one in its place. The restaurant deserves a mention if only for the water menu. Yes, that’s right – a menu just for water. And top of the list was an €130 bottle of water. I would be hard pressed to spend that much on a bottle of wine, let alone water. Naturally being the irreverent person that I am, I laughed my ass off. Chris just informs me that I also said “what the fuck” to the shock of the waiter, but I don’t remember that 🙂 Food was fantastic though.

We’re in Naples now, just about to head to the airport to fly to Nice. We’ve only been here one night so I can’t really find anything worth mentioning about Naples. I suspect even if I’d been here a bit longer I wouldn’t be overly enthused but we did do the Pompeii thing and my feet ache like it’s nobody’s business. As I always say: “Seen one ruin, seen them all”. Ciao.

Rome wasn’t seen in a day

A night at the opera (well, classical anyway)

Too much to do, too little time has been our mantra in Rome. Seriously – one day? – Nowhere near enough time to see this beautiful city. Of course I absolutely had to get me some shopping time in, so our day went something like this: “Ah, here’s the Pantheon – oh look – Zara. Now for the Trevi Fountain – ooh Benetton” and so on. In the end I ditched Chris after our abortive boot camp march to the Modern Art Gallery (closed on a Monday – doh!) and indulged myself. Will I ever wear that zebra top I bought? Hmm… we shall see…

Road to nowhere

As close as I get to a church these days

Serifos has definitely been an interesting stay. Not interesting in that lots of things happened – there’s really not a lot to do except relax – but interesting in that we managed to find one of the few islands not spoilt by tourism and we had a chance to see what Greek life was all about. Oh and I got in touch with my own mortality.

As lovely as Hotel Rizes was, we didn’t want to spend *all* day lazing by the pool so we hired a car and proceeded to go off the beaten track to get to ‘real Greece’. I decided to drive because a) I’d never driven on the right-hand side of the road before and b) didn’t want to be a wuss about driving on the right-hand side of the road.

So… here’s what driving off the beaten track in Serifos mostly entails: driving up/down a rutted stony track only wide enough for one car at a time with no barriers and a sheer drop to certain death on one side, clutching the steering wheel in a death grip praying to any god that will listen and resolutely not looking down. I would have let Chris drive but I’m too much of a control freak and he kept looking at the view so he was banned from driving – except when I’d had too much to drink in the evening (which was every evening incidentally 🙂 ).

My favourite dining experience on the island came when after finishing our meal (and a bottle of wine) the owner gave us a glass of local firewater to send us on our way. Got to love a country that gives you more booze before you drive home to ‘perk you up’.