Everything but the kitchen sink

Louvre – check; Eiffel tower* – check; Musee d’Orsay – check; Museum of Modern Art – check; L’Orangerie – check; copious amounts of shopping – double check; holiday to recover from holiday… well that might have to wait for a bit 🙂

I just have to say that for me the L’Orangerie was the best part of the whole trip. Those wrap around Monets are incredible and the moments when I walk around with my jaw on the floor in an art gallery are few and far between. The fact that you get a few Renoirs, Gauguins, Picassos and Cezannes et al are just an added bonus. Its bigger sister, the Musee d’Orsay, had a wonderful impressionist gallery housed in an old railway station. Chris took a picture of me at the clock face but I looked like I was having teeth pulled so I’ve put up a picture of just the clock instead.

The other worthwhile stop was in fact the Museum of Modern Art. Now if you plan on seeing it, please note that there are in fact two museums of modern art in Paris. The difference is one is free, the other isn’t**. Can you guess which one I went for? Well, if you didn’t know my tightarse ways by now you should have guessed that I don’t much like spending money on exhibitions (but incidentally have no problem doing it shopping). Anyway, the City MOMA is absolutely free and has a pretty good cafe there to boot and featured such highlights as a morse code chandelier. There was also a mouse running in a  circle on one of the floors, but I’m pretty sure that wasn’t one of the exhibits, though it was pretty entertaining for about five minutes or so.

I believe I have now maxed out my credit card so it’s just as well we’re leaving Paris tomorrow <sob>. Who would have thought that I’d ever have wanted to stay?

*this involved standing underneath it in the rain, looking up and thinking ‘just can’t be bothered’
**there are probably other differences too, but I would have had to fork out the bucks to see it so I guess we’ll never know.

Not another art gallery…

Ah Paris, I love you so… There are so many interesting things to do and see – a week is just not enough. I guess I’ll just have to keep coming back until I’m done 🙂 We are staying in a fantastic location on the Ile Saint-Louis in the centre of Paris. Close to everything with a boucherie, a boulangerie and fromagerie just outside the door and on a street of restaurants. I may put on 5 kilos in Paris alone.

We went to the Louvre today <sigh>. It was pretty big (actually, that’s somewhat of an understatement) and had a fabulous collection, but I think I’m just over art galleries and wandering around seeing the same kind of paintings over and over again. I know I shouldn’t diss the Mona Lisa, but it didn’t seem all that special quite frankly. Not that the queue milling around thought the same. In fact my exposure to the Mona Lisa was actually a backward glance over my shoulder as I walked past the crowd *lol*. Please try not to swoon all you art lovers, but I’ll reserve my praise for my personal fave; Monet who is and has always been da man.

Queen of the mountain

Today I felt like I climbed to the top of Mt Everest. Well, I may as well have for I skied down a bloody big mountain. I’ll admit my expectations weren’t high starting off ski lessons this week. If I could just ski down a little hill, that would have been a major accomplishment. Well skiing down a mountain is sooooooo much better! Just think, two days ago I could barely turn and now I can ski a mountain. I even did a little bit of a red run 🙂 Mind you, small children can still ski better than me, but I’m not letting that ruin my sense of achievement.

Lifestyles of the rich and famous

We now come to the sporting part of our itinerary: skiing in St Gervais, France. Now St Gervais is like a poor-man’s Chamonix. It’s actually a really nice town, you just don’t get rich women swanning around in fur coats carrying little dogs… and that’s no bad thing. We’re staying practically at the bottom of the ski lift so it’s all really convenient to get to the slopes.

We’ve booked private lessons and that turned out to be a godsend. Well for me anyway, as I’m a skiing virgin (no jokes please Tuss). Chris is skiing down the slopes already with aplomb, because he’s done this before, but I’m giving the 5 year olds a run for their money and I managed to ski for the whole two hours without falling over (partly due to our ski instructor ‘guiding’ me downhill 🙂 ).

The only bad thing about this holiday is that yet again there is no internet where we are staying and the places in town have time restrictions (the bastards!) so we can’t drink the bar dry while we download copious amounts of movies from iTunes. The downside to life in the cloud I suppose. Still, I guess the purpose of a holiday is not to spend your whole time on the internet although the withdrawal symptoms get worse when I know a basketball game is on. Go Wildcats!

Grace & shopping

Now I’m not big on the whole cultural experience – seen one cathedral, seen them all, I always say – but today I saw something so beautiful I can scarcely put it into words: The Basilica at Notre Dame in Lyon. I was so utterly gobsmacked on walking into the cathedral, that I stood for several minutes just gasping at the incredible mosaics and stained glass windows. If I can’t put my faith in god, at least I can believe one could be closer to him in a place like this. Words are so inadequate here – it was unexpected… to say the least.

The gallo-roman museum we traipsed to next wasn’t as awe-inspiring for me, although they did have a special ‘history of medicine’ exhibition going on with some fairly interesting items on offer such as a four-valve vaginal speculum! What did they get up to in the old days? Culture out of the way, we proceeded to walk practically every street of Old Town in Lyon; shopping, then attempting to find a restaurant that wasn’t too touristy. At some point you just give up and sit down at the next bar you find. Unfortunately that doesn’t bode well for the wine choice, but one drinks on regardless…

Hiking the Saleve

It was our ‘stay in Geneva’ weekend this weekend, so naturally we crossed the border to France :). Time was of the essence, however, as we wanted to take the cable car up to Mont Saleve and this was the last weekend it was open this year. After seeing the height of the mountain, I’m pretty damn sure I didn’t want to climb up it and apart from a few errant thoughts of how we’d survive if the cable broke, the cable car option seemed best. By the way, I just find it bizarre that we could hop on a bus and 10 minutes later be in France for just $3 (approx). If I did that back home I might be in the next suburb. Now having said I didn’t want to climb Mont Saleve, well, there was climbing! The cable car only gets you so far, but it was worth it for the beautiful views. I felt all Maria-ish and if there hadn’t been people around I would have burst into a chorus of “The Sound of Music”. As it was I did a little run 😉 Have made mental resolve to visit Austria in the spring time and reenact that scene. Of course that means I’ll have to get Chris to watch the Sound of Music to get that particular pop culture reference – he’s going to love that!

After hiking for three hours we finally returned home to a well earned bottle of red and a ragu. I don’t know much about the wines here so I’m making an effort to drink as much as possible to determine the best ones. We’d made a little stuff up the day before by venturing into a *very* expensive food hall and buying some meat for the ragu. You would not believe it, but four osso buco shins cost us $50! It was the most expensive ragu I’ve ever had, but delicious. Note to self: $4.50 for 100g is not actually cheap.

It’s back to France again next weekend – we’re heading for Lyon as it’s pretty close by train. In the meantime, it’s a series of cafes, shops, wine bars and restaurants. What on earth did I use to do with my time back home?

The penny drops

OK, I’ll admit to being a bit thick here, but I really haven’t understand why people liked to travel so much. I never had the inclination when I was younger and when I finally joined the party I was always happiest when I was on my way back home (and only then could look back fondly). And let’s not forget that the longest period I’d ever been away before was for two weeks and my excursions were few and far between. But last night was a bit of an eye-opener for me (plus I was pretty drunk so that always helps to make the experience a good one). Actually the way that reads you might be thinking I’m about to give details of an orgy or something, but I assure you, that is not the case 🙂

No, it was simply a trip to Annecy which is an adorable little town in France that is my new love. Cobble stones, chateaus, 18th century buildings, lake, segways and a tonne of shops – what more could you want? Oh, yeah and a few hip wine bars like the one we propped up the bar at last night. From the cute French waiter who had been surfing at Margaret River to the world weary wine connoisseur who gave us $150 bottles of wine recommendations, I could stand a bit more of this… Well, my midriff might not stand too many nights like last night but the rest of the growth experience is good!

Edit: the B&B where we stayed: http://www.maison-acote.com/uk_home – a contemporary room tucked into an attic in a lovely old building.