Category Archives: Cambodia

Siem Reap on Two Wheels: Temples, Circus & Chafing Tales

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The journey to Siem Reap was meant to be a breezy six hours. Spoiler alert: it wasn’t. Our bus driver took a wrong turn, adding a couple of extra hours to an already marathon day 😭.

But honestly? None of that mattered the moment we rolled into Siem Reap. First impressions? This place is my jam. Clean streets, buzzing energy, and that was just on the way to the hotel!

That night, we hit up Phare Circus—think Fringe World meets Cambodian artistry. Acrobatics, storytelling, music… it’s a must-see. Add it to your itinerary, no excuses.

The next day was the big one: Angkor Wat. We cycled there, and let me tell you—photos don’t even come close. You have to stand in front of those towering spires to feel the weight of history. It’s breathtaking. And it’s not just Angkor Wat.

Next stop: Angkor Thom. Unlike Angkor Wat’s Hindu roots, Angkor Thom is all about Buddha. Picture dozens of serene, smiling faces carved into stone towers—it’s surreal. At this point, I ditched the guided tour and wandered off. Cue me, sitting at the meeting point early, streaming the Lynx vs Flyers basketball game on my phone (culture clash much?). Suddenly, monkeys. Everywhere. Nestling up next to me like we were old mates. Meanwhile, I’m trying to focus on Han Xu, our exciting new import. Monkeys were not on my radar.

Then came the “Tomb Raider” temple: Ta Prohm. Nature and architecture locked in an epic embrace—roots gripping stone, stone supporting roots. Without one, the other falls. It’s hauntingly beautiful. I was so mesmerised I nearly got left behind.

By now, we’d clocked 32km, and let’s just say… chafing had entered the chat. Sitting comfortably was a distant dream, but there was still 14km to go. So I gritted my teeth, and powered through.

The day ended with one last dinner with the crew. I finally learnt everyone’s names (better late than never), and while we won’t be penpals, I genuinely liked every single one of them. If you’re considering an Intrepid Tour—do it. Highly recommend.

Borderline Adventures: Rapids, Leeches & Kayaks in Stung Treng

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We’ve made it to the little town of Stung Treng, where adventure (and, more importantly, separate sleeping accommodation) awaits! Lunch is at the delightful Ponika’s Palace, and—surprisingly—the chicken with eggplant steals the show. Absolutely delicious.

There’s a lively market nearby, but let’s just say I nearly brought up my lunch when I saw all the meat laid out on the ground. Sometimes ignorance really is bliss. The veggies, though? They looked fantastic!

The next morning, we set out for a full day of exertion. First up: a riverboat ride, followed by a bone-rattling journey in a tractor-pulled cart. Then the real challenge begins—a hike to the “waterfall,” battling leeches along the way.

Now, about that waterfall… I’d like to query the definition. More like rapids, really—though I wouldn’t fancy kayaking down it! We were right on the Laos border, and naturally, all the flotsam washed up on the Cambodian side was blamed on them. 😉

After that, it was back via the same combo—hike, tractor ride, riverboat—before switching gears for kayaking. No way was I volunteering for a single kayak when I could team up and let someone else do the hard work!

Good portions of the downstream ride were spent idling while we waited for others to catch up—because I’m ridiculously competitive and happened to be paired with the guide. Winner, winner, chicken dinner!

Tomorrow, we roll into Siem Reap for a well-earned day of rest. And trust me, we’ll need it, for a 40km cycling day awaits.

Terrors, Horrors and Delights

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Today was a day of firsts: I ate a tarantula, I slept with 11 strangers, and I saw an Irrawaddy dolphin!

Tarantula Terror: From Screams to Snacks

I’m terrified of live tarantulas—so naturally, I ended up with three crawling all over me.

We were passing through “spider town” on the way to our homestay, and I thought maybe I’d be brave enough to nibble on a cricket. What I didn’t expect was to become a human jungle gym for arachnids. After firmly telling our guide “no thanks,” I wandered off… straight into a group of cheeky kids who decided I needed a more immersive experience. One tarantula on my arm, two on my stomach, and me frantically trying not to become a tragic tourist headline. (They can bite, but apparently aren’t venomous—comforting, right?)

Eventually, the boys removed them—then had the audacity to demand $1 for the privilege! Honestly, after that ordeal, eating one seemed tame. So I tried a crispy tarantula, a cricket, and even a silkworm. Verdict? Surprisingly tasty. Crunchy, nutty, and way less scary when deep-fried.

Homestay Horrors: The Walton Family Vibes

Ever seen The Waltons? That wholesome show where everyone shouts “Good night!” from their shared bedroom? That was my first thought when we arrived at the homestay and discovered all 12 of us would be sleeping in one room. 😱

Flashbacks to my Corsican hillbilly adventure hit hard, but with no other option, I decided to embrace it. It’s a fascinating glimpse into village life—simple, communal, and very different from my world. I even found a kitty to pat, which helped. But let’s be real: if I’d been born here, I’d be sprinting to the nearest city.

Dolphin Delights: Patience Pays Off

After surviving the surprise slumber party, we headed north of Kratié to Kampi in search of Irrawaddy dolphins. These gentle, endangered creatures—fewer than 100 remain in Cambodia—are elusive in the murky Mekong. Our little boat chugged upstream, and just when patience was wearing thin, there they were: smooth grey backs breaking the surface.

It’s a fleeting, magical moment. They face huge challenges, but conservation efforts are slowly turning the tide. For now, I’m just grateful I got to see them.

You can’t keep an adventurous gal like me out of the saddle.

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That said… after surviving back-to-back 70km cycling days on my last trip, I decided to dial things down a notch. This time, I’ve signed up for an 8-day bike/hike/kayak tour of Cambodia—still adventurous, just with a little less punishment for the legs!

The trip didn’t start smoothly. A delayed flight meant I missed my connection to Phnom Penh, but eventually I made it and was ready to meet the group for our first village cycle. Names? Already forgotten. Hoping I’ll have them sorted by the end of the week. 😉

Our warm-up ride was a relatively easy 20km, though I was wishing for my gel-padded seat by kilometre five. Still, what a way to explore the neighbourhood! The highlight? Cycling onto a ferry to reach a tiny island in the middle of the Mekong River—an exercise in precision, but no one fell in. Soon we were lazily pedalling around, soaking up local life.

Like in India, you can feel the pull of the big cities—young people chasing opportunities elsewhere. But here, the art of silk weaving is still alive and well. Luckily, I hadn’t hit the ATM yet, so I avoided adding another scarf to my “never wear” collection.

The afternoon took a heavier turn with a visit to the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum. Something that was just a vague awareness when I was a kid suddenly became painfully real. It gives new meaning to the word atrocities—and makes you wonder, when will we ever learn? One of the child survivors from a notorious torture camp now works there. I bought his book. It’s a hard read, but necessary if you want to understand who Cambodia is as a people.