Category Archives: Africa

Sink or swim

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Tough work on the things this camel trekking.

Tough work on the thighs this camel trekking business.

Oh. Dear. God. My solo trip to Budapest did not in any way prepare me for a solo trip to Marrakech. To say I feel out of my depth is an understatement. I think it is just time to face facts that I’m not an itinerant dilettante travelling the world but someone who is really never happier than when she’s at home. Not that Marrakech is not fabulous – I’m looking forward to exploring the souks and trekking the mountains etc – but on my own, initially, it’s rather terrifying. Not that I’m letting that stop me –although alcohol is not quite as easily to be had here so I’m having to venture further out than I would normally at night just to steady my nerves. But I refuse to let my fears get the better of me!

What a difference a day makes… While the first night was overwhelming, the second day involved a trek to a berber village. And a camel. What more could you ask for? Actually riding a camel is not as comfortable as it might look and I was begging to come off after the first hour, but it is now done and I can cross it off my bucket list. I would like to go for a longer trek but I’m unable as yet to reconcile my need for a western style toilet and roughing it. Also, on the way to the village I saw a haunch of meat hanging from a road-side stall which doesn’t fill me with confidence for any meat dish I eat in one of these nearby restaurants. Naturally it was still there when we returned in the afternoon <shudder>. Fortunately I have figured out how to find my way back to the Riad at night and drinking alone doesn’t bother me anymore so I’m pretty relaxed.

A traditional hammam the next day had me scrubbed within an inch of my life. It’s pretty disgusting seeing just how much dead skin you’re carrying on you – though I think they scrubbed off some real skin too – definitely a bit pink after that one! You kind of have to let modesty go out the window though because their hands are everywhere! I’ve wandered through the markets, trying not to be drawn in by all the bright shiny objects I could have for only a few dollars (if I bargain well) but keeping an eye out for charlatans and animal handlers. I live in terror of someone draping a live cobra around my neck. Mind you, they will be awfully surprised when I scream like a banshee and run for my life. Hope the damn thing doesn’t bite me in the meantime.

There’s a certain feel to Marrakech that you just don’t get travelling through Europe. It’s noisy, colourful, manic, entertaining and bloody hell is it smelly, but just throwing yourself into the flow of life here has been kind of liberating. I will return…

It’s Africa

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No phone, no internet, no electricity: “It’s Africa” they all say. I say “arghhhhhh” I mean, I can do without my phone and electricity, but no internet? That’s just a cruel and unusual punishment.

Crumbling casa

Crumbling casa

We’ve now left the lovely Benguerra Island behind and, in a bizarre exercise in logistics (it’s Africa), flew south for a night in Maputo, then far north for a night on the Ilha de Mozambique. This is a UNESCO world heritage site that is crumbling down around them, yet could be a pretty remarkable destination if they had any money to put into it. UNESCO grants its status, but won’t grant money, and the locals certainly don’t have any (it’s Africa). It’s definitely worth a visit, but fat chance of getting me back there without internet. I’m surprised we were even able to get dinner the number of times the electricity went out. The waiter was in the middle of pouring me a vodka when we were plunged into darkness the first time. Now I can do without dinner but give the girl a drink at least. In the background, a spectacular lightning display unfolded and we were able to see what we were eating between flashes and a well placed torch. This must be what roughing it feels like 🙂

Three roofs blew off during the night but I slept like a baby courtesy of the 5am trip to the airport, two hour flight, then a two hour drive to get here. The next morning we went on a tour of the palace (former Governor’s mansion) and the church. Hysterically our guide at the church delivered his tour entirely in Portuguese, but we managed to get the gist of it, I think. He certainly understood the tip (it’s Africa). Some things are universal.

Gilligan’s Island

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Not a bad way to spend a day

Not a bad way to spend a day

Yup, that’s right little buddy – we’re staying on Gilligan’s Island (after they were rescued and went back to create a luxury resort). All we need is Mary Ann’s coconut cream pie and my 60s flashback is complete. Our temporary home is at Benguerra Lodge in a casita on the beach, complete with plunge pool and butler. I have to say, I do like being waited on 🙂

It’s hard to believe it, but with three lodges on this Island, there are only two other guests. I know it’s the wet season, but apart from the evening shower yesterday that cancelled my horse riding expedition, it’s been blue skies all the way. Actually the horse riding is quite an incredible tale in itself: these horses were rescued from the Zimbabwe land invasions and eventually found a home in Mozambique. You see, I’m getting a holiday and a history lesson…

At the Dhow bar

At the Dhow bar

Given my dislike for getting wet, it might surprise you to know that I’m in the ocean *all* the time here. Partly because it’s so hot but mainly because it is so inviting. Also, it hardly feels like you’re in, the water is so warm. Even when we went out to a reef in the middle of the ocean for some snorkelling, it wasn’t cold at all. And speaking of snorkelling: usually it’s the fish that draws the attention, but in this case it was the coral which was in pristine condition and I’ve never seen the like before (in my one previous snorkelling experience that is). I only wish I had some photos to show you (maybe another expensive camera purchase?). I kind of thought we were going to have a relaxing three days, but our “cruise director” has our days planned out exceedingly well. From dhow cruises to picnics on the beach, there’s just no time for relaxation!

For some reason my mobile and my MasterCard don’t work over here. Either that or I haven’t paid my bills. Either way it’s worth remembering in future to bring two different credit cards! Good thing Chris is here as ‘Minister for Finance’ as our host Solomon would say.

A tale of two kitties (apologies to Charles Dickens)

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We have now left behind South Africa but I have made a firm resolve to be back soon as it was an amazing experience. I want to trek the Kalahari, traverse the bushveld, follow the migration of the Wildebeest – all in the utmost luxury of course 🙂. A lot of that has to do with the cats. It probably doesn’t surprise many people given my borderline status as a crazy cat lady, but I wanted to share two different experiences before I devote my days to hedonistic pleasure in Mozambique.

Tough life being a cat

Tough life being a cat

We came across the young male lion unexpectedly, early in our morning safari yet he barely acknowledged our existence. i.e. he continued sleeping on the ground. How like a cat. Nothing really changed for ten minutes or so. I mean, he opened his eyes, stretched, yawned, but essentially remained where he was. Then all of a sudden he got to his feet and was all quivering alertness. It was then we saw the hyena approaching from behind. The lion didn’t turn to face the hyena, but kicked out his back feet and the hyena eventually slunk away, whereupon the lion settled back down for another sleep. The lion won the encounter today but unfortunately faces a sad future as he was driven from his pride by a pack of males who killed his brother and attempts to join another pride have met with rejection. He will find it difficult to survive without company. I’ve got to stop singing the Circle of Life when I hear sad tales such as this. Chris hates it when I’m channeling The Lion King.

Mvula (big daddy)

Mvula (big daddy)

Quite the opposite is the leopard – he is a solitary creature for the most part and gets on very well on his own (must be why I like them so much!). They’re cool without even trying. They have that, “don’t give a damn” attitude and “I’ll do what I want” air. They also tend not to stay still very often, so once you’ve found one you have to follow them through the bush as they’re not normally conveniently located in a tree by the road. I think the ranger does more damage than an elephant in his efforts to position us perfectly for photos. It is also a lot of fun – especially when you’re in the relative safety of a jeep. We were lucky to see three leopards this trip (one up a tree with his kill!) but I would happily see many more. They also make for some quite stunning photographs and I think I’ve found myself a new hobby – and an excuse to buy myself a really expensive camera.

Hakuna Matata

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Bogged in the stream? no worries - just set up a table and have something to drink.

Bogged in a stream? no worries – just set up a table and have something to drink.

As promised, an African Safari was next on the cards and from the moment I saw my first warthog I’ve had Hakuna Matata running on a loop in my head. After swallowing my fears and several malaria tablets, we arrived at Arathusa Lodge for our grand adventure. We go out on safari every morning at the ungodly hour of 5am and again in the afternoon at 4. After three hours of driving around, we’ve pretty much seen everything: hippos playing, zebras chasing, tortoises mating, rhinos… well email me if you want that pic, and countless other birds and beasts. We finally got to see a lion this morning (he was proving quite elusive) so now we’ve ticked off the big 5 I’m not sure if there’s anything left to see?

The animals are so beautiful (well maybe not the warthog) and we get incredibly close to them. I had visions of being chased by lions before this trip but they seem completely disinterested in us. I’m not sure the same could be said if we were on foot so rule number one is “Don’t get out of the car” No problems there – I’ll dampen down my usual disregard for authority and do as I’m told (note: this probably won’t ever happen again). My favourite thus far would probably be the leopard. He was so sleek and elegant and completely chilled out. I would have liked to pat him, apart from rule number two relating to petting the animals.

Internet has been a bit dodgy so I haven’t had a chance to post pics but I plan to do so directly I post this. Next stop Mozambique and the appearance of Island Sam.