There’s something in the water

Posted on December 12, 2013 by Sam

Propping up the wall (soooo frickin’ cold)

I always suspected that Berlin would evoke an emotional response given the part Germany played in the World Wars, but what I didn’t expect was the intellectual response it would engender instead. If you’ve been keeping up with my blog you might think that all I’ve been doing is drinking my way through Europe – but it’s my inalienable right to do that! I can scarcely give it credence that a world could exist where I didn’t have the freedom that I have. Of course this led to a discussion on the sort of person we would have been if we were born post WW II Berlin. I was certain I couldn’t have kept my mouth shut and would have been locked up if I hadn’t already thrown myself over the wall, while Chris reckons he would have taken the passive resistance route. I’m thankful we will never know the answer to that, but it’s a sobering thought.

Lumineers in Berlin

Of course this trip didn’t start out with so much introspection (predominantly fueled by alcohol it has to be admitted) – we were only in Berlin to see The Lumineers in concert and everything else was just an added bonus. However if the only thing we saw was The Lumineers then the trip would still have been worthwhile. They were fantastic and everything a live act should be. On our way back from the concert a busker just happened to be singing a Lumineers song in the subway which resulted in an impromptu chorus from passersby. All we needed to complete the experience was a flash mob.

The food highlight was the German tapas we had at Leibhaftig which was unexpectedly delicious. It was surprising the number of ways they could cook sausage. Obviously the lowest common denominator was in full effect when I tried to persuade the cook to trade his t-shirt for my hat simply because his shirt said “wanke beer”. I’m a little ashamed (and quite obviously Australian), but a couple of cocktails prior to this made me think it would be an awesome present for my nephew, Hamish. On second thought, Hamish may not have been so appreciative of a second hand t-shirt ripped from a stranger’s body after a night of drinking, but it’s the thought that counts *lol*.

Foodie haunts:

Leibhaftig – awesome German tapas and some pretty nice beer 😉
Café Hermann Eicke – delicious bagels and free wifi
Joris – good coffee

Sink or swim

Posted on December 8, 2013 by Sam

Tough work on the things this camel trekking.

Tough work on the thighs this camel trekking business.

Oh. Dear. God. My solo trip to Budapest did not in any way prepare me for a solo trip to Marrakech. To say I feel out of my depth is an understatement. I think it is just time to face facts that I’m not an itinerant dilettante travelling the world but someone who is really never happier than when she’s at home. Not that Marrakech is not fabulous – I’m looking forward to exploring the souks and trekking the mountains etc – but on my own, initially, it’s rather terrifying. Not that I’m letting that stop me –although alcohol is not quite as easily to be had here so I’m having to venture further out than I would normally at night just to steady my nerves. But I refuse to let my fears get the better of me!

What a difference a day makes… While the first night was overwhelming, the second day involved a trek to a berber village. And a camel. What more could you ask for? Actually riding a camel is not as comfortable as it might look and I was begging to come off after the first hour, but it is now done and I can cross it off my bucket list. I would like to go for a longer trek but I’m unable as yet to reconcile my need for a western style toilet and roughing it. Also, on the way to the village I saw a haunch of meat hanging from a road-side stall which doesn’t fill me with confidence for any meat dish I eat in one of these nearby restaurants. Naturally it was still there when we returned in the afternoon <shudder>. Fortunately I have figured out how to find my way back to the Riad at night and drinking alone doesn’t bother me anymore so I’m pretty relaxed.

A traditional hammam the next day had me scrubbed within an inch of my life. It’s pretty disgusting seeing just how much dead skin you’re carrying on you – though I think they scrubbed off some real skin too – definitely a bit pink after that one! You kind of have to let modesty go out the window though because their hands are everywhere! I’ve wandered through the markets, trying not to be drawn in by all the bright shiny objects I could have for only a few dollars (if I bargain well) but keeping an eye out for charlatans and animal handlers. I live in terror of someone draping a live cobra around my neck. Mind you, they will be awfully surprised when I scream like a banshee and run for my life. Hope the damn thing doesn’t bite me in the meantime.

There’s a certain feel to Marrakech that you just don’t get travelling through Europe. It’s noisy, colourful, manic, entertaining and bloody hell is it smelly, but just throwing yourself into the flow of life here has been kind of liberating. I will return…

Live in Budapest

Posted on November 29, 2013 by Sam

Having finally decided that enough was enough and sitting around in Geneva while Chris worked sucked big time, I booked a trip to Budapest to show that I could do it all on my own. What I proved is that yes, while I can do it on my own, essentially on the inside I’m curled up in the foetal position repeating my mantra “there’s no place like home”. It’s been a mental challenge to say the least.

My first night was spent basically hiding out in my hotel room while I planned the rest of my stay. My excuse was that I arrived late and didn’t want to go out by myself while it was dark. Hey – I can quote you something on Trip Advisor where it says it’s dangerous at night. The next day I girded my loins and sallied forth straight back into my comfort zone of shopping. Oh come on – a holiday where I can do anything I want – you didn’t really think there wouldn’t be a substantial amount of shopping involved? (H & M and Zara seriously need to come to Perth btw). I did in fact start off my day with one of those free guided tours, but let’s face it, I’m really not a people person plus guided tours just aren’t my thing, so after five minutes I ditched the tour in favour of shopping. I was determined not to let that be the sum of my parts however and crossed the Danube to try and find a church in a cave and failing that, (stupid Trip Advisor is not very accurate with the GPS sometimes) climbed the hill to some sort of Citadel. I should know the importance of this, but I’m afraid I zoned out when the guide was talking. In the evening, with some inspired bravery, I crossed the road directly opposite the hotel to go to a Thai restaurant. You will not hear me say very often that something is overcooked (I do like things crispy), but that chicken was well done, even for me. Also, pineapple in chicken cashew nut is just wrong. Just shows you shouldn’t really rely on Trip Advisor reviews all the time. I restored my sense of equilibrium by watching Grease and raiding the mini bar.

Shoes on the Danube

Day three was eminently more satisfying. Out of all the sights I wanted to see in Budapest, Shoes on the Danube was number one on my list. Why? I couldn’t really tell you, but I’ve always been particularly affected by things relating to the world wars. I imagine it’s on account of all the (mostly dreadful) historical fiction I used to read when I was younger. This was just a quiet reflection on the atrocities of war, but poignant nonetheless. I understand there is a holocaust museum here, but I’m saving that sort of thing for Berlin. If my reaction to the peace memorial at Hiroshima was anything to go by, I didn’t want to be by myself when visiting it! I couldn’t resist the Basilica of St Stephen after this. I’m still hopeful after my Lyon experience that I will be suitably enraptured, but everything else falls just a little short. It was certainly grand, but no mosaics 😦 . I find it a curious thing to see a priest taking entry fee to the church. Seems a bit too commercial for me – but I shouldn’t bag him out too much as he did let me through when I didn’t have enough coin. I then committed a crime against fashion by buying a puffer jacket from Zara. Yes, I’m now one of the legions of muffled up, stuffed sausage Michelin men walking the streets of Europe, but I don’t care – It keeps me soooooo warm – surely that redeems it somewhat?

Best mulled wine ever

If Trip Advisor had let me down with restaurant reviews, Spotted by Locals certainly hasn’t. In my most daring move to date, I walked all of 300 meters to Sonka Arcok for dinner. Just go here, OK. Great food and I do love a mulled wine that doesn’t come from a tub. I had thought to be alcohol free this trip, but hadn’t counted on the impact of travelling on my own. Oh, I admit it freely: I’ve turned into a lush. I’ve had periods of lushishness in the past, but alcohol has become my crutch this trip. Wow – that sounds really bad. True, but bad. I’m ashamed to admit that room service remembered me from the bar *lol*. So on the whole this solo travelling gig has been very illuminating. I enjoy being able to do whatever I want, but miss the security of travelling with someone who can fight off muggers if need be. Bwahaha – I think Chris might just hand over his goods, but it sounded good as I was writing it.

Go Lisbon

Posted on November 25, 2013 by Sam

Modern Art?

To finish our holiday we ended up where we began: in Lisbon (long story, don’t ask). Surprisingly this part of the trip had zero shopping involved (luggage packed to brim courtesy of Seville) and was all about culture (of sorts), but my sort of culture. In the past I’ve felt the need to go and see as much as I can to get the most out of a trip but it’s exhausting! I’m coming to the realization that most of the time it’s just about being there, so if I don’t go into another cathedral, monastery or ruin* again I shouldn’t feel I’ve missed out on anything 🙂

Funnily enough, the reason we’re in Lisbon in the first place is purely because of one of my current fave bands: The National. After I went to Japan just to see Queen, flying to Lisbon to see The National didn’t seem that odd to me. Let me just say right now that I should have known better. I know what sort of music they play – there was no reason to suspect that they would be electrifying on stage (they’re not in case you haven’t figured out where this is going) and the most exciting thing about the act turned out to be the video background and counting the roving Super Bock beer boys filling up drinks. I’ve never seen an audience so perfectly still. I mean, there was one guy going a bit nuts at the back, but there wasn’t a lot of movement going on otherwise. If we’d had more comfortable seats I probably would have fallen asleep. Oh well, let’s hope the Lumineers in Berlin offer more reward.

The other side of the cultural experience related to art. You wouldn’t have thought it, but the modern art museums in Lisbon are pretty special, particularly the Centro de Arte Moderna which had an exhibition by the Portuguese artist Amadeo de Souza-Cardoso which was quite something. Unfortunately it is rather small and you have to fork out a few bucks to get in (unlike the other modern art museum in Belem which is free and enormous). What makes this worth seeing is the associated Gulbenkian Museum which has quite a remarkable collection – and story behind it too. My particular favourites were the portrait of Mrs Monet by Renoir and the Lalique collection. Amazing. He was quite the pack rat Mr Gulbenkian. If you are interested in art in any way go and see it. Oh heck, go see it even if you’re not. Plus if you get bored you can always go outside and watch the ducks in the gardens between the two.

Cafes to try in Lisbon:

Café Tati – Eclectic styled café with delicious and really cheap breakfast
Pois Café –Over ordered considerably because it all looked so good (try the cheese toasties)
Deli Delux – Nice café/wine bar with gourmet delights abounding. Can’t believe how cheap the wine is here (we drank two bottles)

*Couldn’t quite stay away from Roman ruins as we passed by Merida on our way to Lisbon. Have to say that it was worth a visit, but don’t bother staying the night because there’s really not that much else to see.

Siesta time

Posted on November 21, 2013 by Sam

Do the octogenarians like me? Oh yes they do…

It’s kind of embarrassing to admit this, but our Spanish excursion got off to a rather ignominious start when we arrived at the airport a day early. How did this happen? We’re still not sure – but all you can really do is laugh and chalk it up to one of those travel experiences that give you good mileage at dinner parties. As it turned out, this was just the precursor to a series of cock-ups until we arrived in Seville (via Lisbon). But we’re here now and that’s what’s important!

I initially had no desire to come to Spain but now I wonder what I was thinking because I love it here. It’s a bit of a culinary adventure for me and ordering tapas is like Russian roulette with a distinct lack of English on the menus, but I’m just giving it a red hot go. Chris will eat anything I don’t anyway so I know it won’t go to waste. But the best part is how cheap everything is. Dinner is a fraction of what it would be in Geneva and we’re staying in a lovely apartment in the heart of Seville which is only 80 Euros a night. To top it all off it’s been lovely and sunny. However one of these days I’m actually going to go to Europe in spring or summer instead of the middle of winter.

The highlight of the trip would have to be a visit to El Rinconcillo a tapas bar made (in)famous by Rick Stein. We had only just started drinking when an old man came up and handed me a table napkin with a poem written on it. Google translate doesn’t quite do it justice I’m sure, but the general gist of it is that I have hair like the sun and I’m beautiful, lovely and elegant. What a charmer. Once I’d had it translated for me I went over to thank him. I’d only intended to shake his hand, but he swiftly moved in for the kiss and hug. He’s certainly got some moves on him – not bad considering he must be pushing 80, but I’ll take my compliments where I can get them these days. But it didn’t end there – he made a return trip with a handful of flowers and finally bought me a seat (stolen from the restaurant). I suspect he wanted me to buy him a beer for his efforts, but basking in my beauty should be enough reward 🙂 Eventually his wife came to drag him home, but Valentin has obviously got a good thing going on.

Go here:

Eslava – tapas bar a bit off the beaten track, but well worth the effort to find.

It’s hip to be square

Posted on November 6, 2013 by Sam

The door to our flat!

After walking past the 10^th sex shop en route to our accommodation in Copenhagen, my expectations were plummeting to the soles of my unfashionable shoes, but once I saw the wine bar opposite where we were staying, my worries disappeared. On first glance it did indeed seem we were staying in the seedier part of CPH, and sex toys have certainly come a long way, but we’d actually found ourselves a pretty cool home away from home as it turns out… and the Vesterbro district is very cool – how do I know this? Because everywhere we went was a magnet for the hipster brigade, packed to the rafters and, in what seems to be a direct correlation, had fairly uncomfortable seating.

We only had three nights and were on a mission to seek out the best of Danish design and I have to say, thanks to Illums Bolighus, mission accomplished. Who needs museums and art galleries when you can see four floors of Eames, Hansen, Jacobsen et al, and it must be mentioned that I have a serious crush on Muuto at the moment. The only problem is that there is absolutely no more room in our tiny two bedroom apartment for all this amazing stuff.

…but it was quite nice inside

Shopping aside, I was determined to ride all over Copenhagen but the constant drizzle of rain put paid to that idea. Most of where we needed to go was only five to ten minutes away anyway, but it would be lovely in summer. I did interest Chris in a trip to the river, but half way there he saw the shimmering gleam of the mall in the distance and exclaimed disgustedly “I’ve been tricked”. Well of course I tricked him! – I knew I wasn’t going to get him anywhere near a mall, but I have needs that must be met so a little subterfuge is sometimes necessary 🙂

I didn’t get to see The Little Mermaid in the end, but now I have something to go back to Copenhagen for, apart from food & design.

Food highlights (Vesterbro district):

Kaffe: delicious hot chocolate, spartan seating and what looks like an indoor tree house out the back
Malbeck: best cheese board I’ve had since being in Europe and fantastic wines – very odd seating arrangement
Madklubben: If you only go to one restaurant in CPH, make sure it’s this one (also make sure you book because it’s hugely popular)
Mother: another hugely popular restaurant – it’s more of a vibe thing tho – the pizza is just pizza
Granola: kept coming back until we got a seat for breakfast. Worth the wait.

It’s a beautiful day

Posted on October 26, 2013 by Sam

Mercury & me

A visit to Montreux was almost inevitable given my former, possibly still latent, obsession with Queen. In fact, it was pretty much the only reason for going – cue obligatory pic of me & Freddie. A conveniently placed tourist shop lured me in with all the Queen paraphernalia in the window and then I was in a little Queen wonderland. Now really, who doesn’t need a set of Queen coasters? Though I did draw the line at the Freddie earings.

But Montreux is more than just a place where Freddie lived for a point in time and I actually discovered an old town that was worth the heart attack inducing climb to get there. If that wasn’t enough, it also served as the entrance point to a gorge (Gorges duCalderon) which I hiked deep into the mountains until I realized I was going to miss my train and had to scramble back. I’m starting to realize that it’s the wild places, the quiet places that give me the most satisfaction. That and shopping ’til I drop.

Water tastes better from a Queen glass

Best of all, I finally cracked level 434 of Candy Crush on the train on the way home – been stuck on that stage for close to two weeks. It was indeed a beautiful day…

Lunch: La Rouvenaz (restaurant lunch perhaps not the best idea before a gut busting hike).

La plus heureuse

Posted on October 16, 2013 by Sam

This is as close as we got to culture in Paris…

I’m borrowing from Anne Boleyn’s motto here because a) I’m in France, b) have spent an obscene amount of money shopping and c) have finally had a meal where bacon “bien cuit(e)” was indeed well done! As you can see, it doesn’t take much to make me happy.

I know my plan was to see as many *different* countries as possible but one simply cannot come to Europe without visiting Paris. Our plan to see Versailles was swiftly ditched in favour of shopping in the Marais district on Sunday (Chris actually agreed to this – I kid you not!). We’ll get there one day but there’s a shopping inferno underway here and culture just doesn’t get a look in. After a few weeks of moping around being homesick, I’ve finally remembered the advantages of foreign climes and, shallow as I may be, they revolve around drinking and shopping. I’m still firmly set against living here permanently but the embargo on future travel this direction has definitely been lifted in my mind. Not only do I have a whole new outlook on life, I have a whole new wardrobe… or maybe the new wardrobe has led to the different outlook – who knows? That aside, I still haven’t had enough of Paris and probably never will.

Coming back through customs we obviously looked suspicious as we were stopped and asked if we had anything to declare. I promptly declared my two boxes of porridge in a bid to divert them from the national debt’s worth of clothing in my bag. Fortunately I was under the 20kg limit of oats so crisis averted. As Chris informed me after, they weren’t actually looking for shopping so it was just my general paranoia and guilt over spending my entire holiday savings in one day kicking in 🙂

Places we’ll go back to:

La Cafeotheque: THE place to go for coffee in Paris.
Lizard Lounge: Happy hour is good value for money and burgers were tasty. Cheap night out.
La Mangerie: Yummy cocktails and tapas – get there early!

There’s no place like home

Posted on October 10, 2013 by Sam

So it’s time for round three of Sam’s European Adventures. This time my resolve is to see as many different countries as possible, even if I quite literally step over the border and back again. I had hoped that my visa would have come through but alas we’re still waiting so I’m just here on another three month visit. I think I’m kinda over the whole living in Geneva thing by now – and do I like those long haul flights? Oh no I don’t!

My arrival in Geneva almost got off to a disastrous start when I was pickpocketed, rather clumsily, on the bus from the airport. My makeup bag I can live without, but my passport was a different story. Fortunately a friendly native told me that a woman had taken something out of my bag and pointed her out. Acting instinctively I made a grab for my things which I could see under her arm… whereupon she promptly dropped them on the floor and pretended they were there all along. I called her a thief and made my indignation known to all and sundry, but she calmly stayed on the bus until the next stop where she got off. What can you do really? More lessons learned and I will be maintaining a vice like grip on my bag from here on out 🙂

And finally… Go Wildcats! Beat those 36ers tomorrow night while I’ll be cheering you on from my computer 😦 Ah it’s a sad, sad thing to miss half a basketball season. Really should have timed this vacation better.

It’s Africa

Posted on February 7, 2013 by Sam

No phone, no internet, no electricity: “It’s Africa” they all say. I say “arghhhhhh” I mean, I can do without my phone and electricity, but no internet? That’s just a cruel and unusual punishment.

Crumbling casa

We’ve now left the lovely Benguerra Island behind and, in a bizarre exercise in logistics (it’s Africa), flew south for a night in Maputo, then far north for a night on the Ilha de Mozambique. This is a UNESCO world heritage site that is crumbling down around them, yet could be a pretty remarkable destination if they had any money to put into it. UNESCO grants its status, but won’t grant money, and the locals certainly don’t have any (it’s Africa). It’s definitely worth a visit, but fat chance of getting me back there without internet. I’m surprised we were even able to get dinner the number of times the electricity went out. The waiter was in the middle of pouring me a vodka when we were plunged into darkness the first time. Now I can do without dinner but give the girl a drink at least. In the background, a spectacular lightning display unfolded and we were able to see what we were eating between flashes and a well placed torch. This must be what roughing it feels like 🙂

Three roofs blew off during the night but I slept like a baby courtesy of the 5am trip to the airport, two hour flight, then a two hour drive to get here. The next morning we went on a tour of the palace (former Governor’s mansion) and the church. Hysterically our guide at the church delivered his tour entirely in Portuguese, but we managed to get the gist of it, I think. He certainly understood the tip (it’s Africa). Some things are universal.

Galimatias

Travelogue for the young and young at heart…

Author Archives: Sam