Monthly Archives: November 2025

Terrors, Horrors and Delights

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Today was a day of firsts: I ate a tarantula, I slept with 11 strangers, and I saw an Irrawaddy dolphin!

Tarantula Terror: From Screams to Snacks

I’m terrified of live tarantulas—so naturally, I ended up with three crawling all over me.

We were passing through “spider town” on the way to our homestay, and I thought maybe I’d be brave enough to nibble on a cricket. What I didn’t expect was to become a human jungle gym for arachnids. After firmly telling our guide “no thanks,” I wandered off… straight into a group of cheeky kids who decided I needed a more immersive experience. One tarantula on my arm, two on my stomach, and me frantically trying not to become a tragic tourist headline. (They can bite, but apparently aren’t venomous—comforting, right?)

Eventually, the boys removed them—then had the audacity to demand $1 for the privilege! Honestly, after that ordeal, eating one seemed tame. So I tried a crispy tarantula, a cricket, and even a silkworm. Verdict? Surprisingly tasty. Crunchy, nutty, and way less scary when deep-fried.

Homestay Horrors: The Walton Family Vibes

Ever seen The Waltons? That wholesome show where everyone shouts “Good night!” from their shared bedroom? That was my first thought when we arrived at the homestay and discovered all 12 of us would be sleeping in one room. 😱

Flashbacks to my Corsican hillbilly adventure hit hard, but with no other option, I decided to embrace it. It’s a fascinating glimpse into village life—simple, communal, and very different from my world. I even found a kitty to pat, which helped. But let’s be real: if I’d been born here, I’d be sprinting to the nearest city.

Dolphin Delights: Patience Pays Off

After surviving the surprise slumber party, we headed north of Kratié to Kampi in search of Irrawaddy dolphins. These gentle, endangered creatures—fewer than 100 remain in Cambodia—are elusive in the murky Mekong. Our little boat chugged upstream, and just when patience was wearing thin, there they were: smooth grey backs breaking the surface.

It’s a fleeting, magical moment. They face huge challenges, but conservation efforts are slowly turning the tide. For now, I’m just grateful I got to see them.

You can’t keep an adventurous gal like me out of the saddle.

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That said… after surviving back-to-back 70km cycling days on my last trip, I decided to dial things down a notch. This time, I’ve signed up for an 8-day bike/hike/kayak tour of Cambodia—still adventurous, just with a little less punishment for the legs!

The trip didn’t start smoothly. A delayed flight meant I missed my connection to Phnom Penh, but eventually I made it and was ready to meet the group for our first village cycle. Names? Already forgotten. Hoping I’ll have them sorted by the end of the week. 😉

Our warm-up ride was a relatively easy 20km, though I was wishing for my gel-padded seat by kilometre five. Still, what a way to explore the neighbourhood! The highlight? Cycling onto a ferry to reach a tiny island in the middle of the Mekong River—an exercise in precision, but no one fell in. Soon we were lazily pedalling around, soaking up local life.

Like in India, you can feel the pull of the big cities—young people chasing opportunities elsewhere. But here, the art of silk weaving is still alive and well. Luckily, I hadn’t hit the ATM yet, so I avoided adding another scarf to my “never wear” collection.

The afternoon took a heavier turn with a visit to the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum. Something that was just a vague awareness when I was a kid suddenly became painfully real. It gives new meaning to the word atrocities—and makes you wonder, when will we ever learn? One of the child survivors from a notorious torture camp now works there. I bought his book. It’s a hard read, but necessary if you want to understand who Cambodia is as a people.