Terrors, Horrors and Delights

Today was a day of firsts: I ate a tarantula, I slept with 11 strangers, and I saw an Irrawaddy dolphin!

Tarantula Terror: From Screams to Snacks

I’m terrified of live tarantulas—so naturally, I ended up with three crawling all over me.

We were passing through “spider town” on the way to our homestay, and I thought maybe I’d be brave enough to nibble on a cricket. What I didn’t expect was to become a human jungle gym for arachnids. After firmly telling our guide “no thanks,” I wandered off… straight into a group of cheeky kids who decided I needed a more immersive experience. One tarantula on my arm, two on my stomach, and me frantically trying not to become a tragic tourist headline. (They can bite, but apparently aren’t venomous—comforting, right?)

Eventually, the boys removed them—then had the audacity to demand $1 for the privilege! Honestly, after that ordeal, eating one seemed tame. So I tried a crispy tarantula, a cricket, and even a silkworm. Verdict? Surprisingly tasty. Crunchy, nutty, and way less scary when deep-fried.

Homestay Horrors: The Walton Family Vibes

Ever seen The Waltons? That wholesome show where everyone shouts “Good night!” from their shared bedroom? That was my first thought when we arrived at the homestay and discovered all 12 of us would be sleeping in one room. 😱

Flashbacks to my Corsican hillbilly adventure hit hard, but with no other option, I decided to embrace it. It’s a fascinating glimpse into village life—simple, communal, and very different from my world. I even found a kitty to pat, which helped. But let’s be real: if I’d been born here, I’d be sprinting to the nearest city.

Dolphin Delights: Patience Pays Off

After surviving the surprise slumber party, we headed north of Kratié to Kampi in search of Irrawaddy dolphins. These gentle, endangered creatures—fewer than 100 remain in Cambodia—are elusive in the murky Mekong. Our little boat chugged upstream, and just when patience was wearing thin, there they were: smooth grey backs breaking the surface.

It’s a fleeting, magical moment. They face huge challenges, but conservation efforts are slowly turning the tide. For now, I’m just grateful I got to see them.

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